Olive oil in gastronomy
Extra Virgin Olive Oil is undoubtedly one of the jewels of Spanish gastronomy. More and more people are attracted to olive oil and olive oil tastings. Spain is one of the great producers of olive oil and thanks to its Mediterranean diet, the extensive olive crops and its high quality olive oils, Spain has put itself in the spotlight of the whole world.
Virgin Olive Oil
Virgin olive oil is the juice of the olive. It is the only oil commonly found on the market that is extracted from a fresh fruit, only by mechanical means. It is, therefore, a completely natural product that comes directly from the fruit of the olive tree.
Olive oil has been produced and consumed in the Mediterranean basin for thousands of years, but it has only become intensely known in other parts of the world in recent decades. Today, it is one of the most appreciated edible oils for its nutritional value and gastronomic quality.
Thanks to its high level of monounsaturated fatty acids, vitamin E, natural antioxidants and other nutrients, medical science today considers it one of the healthiest oils. Its excellent aroma and flavor, as well as its great stability and versatility, have earned it the recognition of consumers and cooking professionals around the world.
Today, the olive is grown in many parts of the world, but it is still closely linked to the Mediterranean basin, the most important production area in the world, within which Spain plays a predominant role as the world’s leading producer and exporter. Spanish olive oils are consumed in more than one hundred countries on five continents.
The aromas, flavors and colors of olive oil vary according to the olive varieties used, their degree of ripeness and the growing conditions.
Modern cultivation and harvesting systems, and the use of new extraction, preservation and packaging technologies allow us to enjoy, at present, extra virgin oils with sensory and health attributes that are unparalleled in the history of this extraordinary product.
Furthermore, in recent years, the introduction in Spain of the cultivation of important foreign varieties has made it possible to broaden, if possible, the palette of flavors and aromas of Spanish oils, already enormously varied.
However, for the production of great EVOOs, having the most advanced technology is a necessary but not a sufficient condition; it is also essential to have knowledge, effort, care and a large dose of passion.
Introduction to Olive Oil Tasting
Although for many consumers tasting virgin olive oils may seem an original and novel activity, oil tasting – and tasters – has existed for a long time, practically since this extraordinary food became an object of trade among the ancient Mediterranean peoples, several millennia ago.
The ability to distinguish and describe the different qualities, a fresh and fragrant oil from a duller, tasteless or even defective one, has been of great economic importance since ancient times, as the best oils have always fetched a higher price in the markets.
Virgin olive oil currently has an official method for its valuation and organoleptic analysis. This method was developed by the International Olive Oil Council (IOC) and forms an integral part of the rules that regulate the classification of virgin olive oil in the European Union.
Through a panel of professional tasters, the sensory attributes of virgin olive oils are scientifically and statistically evaluated. The results of the official panel determine, together with other analytical parameters, the classification of oil as “extra virgin”, “virgin” or “lampante”, depending on the absence or presence of defects and their intensity.
The priority, from the regulatory point of view, is the identification of the negative attributes or defects, since only the total absence of them allows a virgin oil to be considered as extra, the highest regulatory quality.
For consumers, oil tasting can be much more than a pleasant diversion; acquiring the basic knowledge to evaluate, albeit subjectively, the EVOOs we consume allows us to choose, with greater freedom, among the great diversity of styles, origins, qualities and prices offered on the market today.
In accordance with IOC criteria and vocabulary, the description of the color of oils is deliberately avoided. The color of extra virgin quality oil can vary from straw yellow to deep green, but color alone tells us nothing about the characteristics of its aroma and flavor.
The fundamental attribute of an EVOO is its fruitiness, defined by the IOC as “the set of olfactory sensations characteristic of the oil, depending on the variety of olives, coming from fresh and healthy fruit, perceived directly and/or retronasally”.
The fruitiness of oil evokes the smell of the olives from which it was made, but in other cases, depending on various factors, we discover notes that remind us of many other fruits, green or ripe, vegetables and other greens, grass, leaves, spices or various aromatic plants and herbs.
As for the sensations in the oral cavity, we will talk about the sweetness of the oils, understood not as a sugary taste but as a tactile sensation of softness, very pleasant in the first third of the tongue. The bitterness, which we perceive on the back of the tongue, and the tactile sensation of itching in the throat, are also positive attributes of EVOOs.
All these attributes are present in varying intensities, and when they are in harmony and in the right proportion, they represent the maximum exquisiteness of the best extra virgin olive oils.
Olive Oil in gastronomy
EVOO enhances the flavor and texture of food, making it lighter and more digestible.
The diversity of aromas and flavors among extra virgin olive oils is extraordinary, from very mild and sweet oils to others with more body and notes of bitterness and spiciness of different intensities. Choosing the most suitable oil for each dish represents a novel and fascinating activity for any restless palate.
Starting from the premise that this matter is enormously subjective, it is a matter of selecting in each case the oil that best enhances and integrates the flavor of the ingredients of each dish, but without imposing itself on them.
To this end, we could classify extra virgin olive oils into three types, which we could call Delicate / Mild, Medium and Robust. This division is based on simple organoleptic criteria, that is to say, on basic perceptions of the smell and taste of the oils that are within the reach of any aficionado or interested consumer.
This simple classification is applicable to all extra virgin olive oils regardless of whether they are made from one or another olive variety or from several of them.
Delicate/mild Oils. These are the softest, lightest and most delicate oils. Their smell reminds us of olives, other ripe fruits or nuts. In the mouth they are fundamentally sweet, with a very slight or almost imperceptible sensation of bitterness and generally little or somewhat spicy.
These oils should not be confused with flat or dull oils, which have lost or seen their attributes diminished by the passage of time and are best used for cooking or frying.
Intense/robust Oils. To this type belong the oils located at the opposite extreme; they are the oils with more body and character. Their smell, generally intense, evokes that of green olives; frequently we will also find other predominant green notes that remind us of freshly cut grass, leaves, tomato, other vegetables, or certain aromatic herbs. In the mouth they can be somewhat sweet on entry, but the sensations of bitterness and spiciness are always well defined, and they can also be somewhat astringent, especially at the beginning of the season.
Medium Oils. These would be the ones located between both extremes; this typology is the widest and most diverse. Their smell, of variable intensity, can remind us of olives between green and ripe, and in them we can also find notes of other green or ripe fruits, such as apple, pear, banana or avocado, and also vegetable notes of tomato, artichoke, thistle, and also floral notes. The palate will be sweet on entry, followed by a light to medium bitterness and a pungent sensation that can have different intensities.
In each case, the degree of ripeness of the fruit, the extraction method, the varieties used or the characteristics of the production area will determine whether oil fits into one category or another.
How to use extra virgin olive oil?
Delicate oils are ideal for combining with foods with a light, delicate or sweet taste, vegetables such as zucchinis, peas or beet or fresh and soft cheeses; they are also the most suitable for sprinkling, for example, on grilled or steamed white fish; also for making mayonnaise or when we want to replace butter with olive oil in the preparation of cakes or other sweets.
Robust oils are ideal for dishes such as gazpacho and salmorejo, and for salads with intense ingredients such as garlic, onion or bell pepper; and to accompany cured cheeses or pasta. They are also the most suitable for sprinkling on grilled red meats or on stew and many others of the extraordinary stews of our traditional gastronomy.
Medium oils are very versatile since among them we can find a wide range of nuances that combine very well with all those foods with a defined but not extreme flavor such as mushrooms, and vegetables such as broccoli or boiled or grilled artichokes. They are also suitable for making tomato sauces and other pasta sauces, as well as for fish such as cod or salmon or meats such as beef, rabbit or chicken.
The main Spanish olive varieties
A large number of native olive varieties are grown in Spain. The different varieties are associated with a particular region and they are the expression of geographical and climatic diversity. The oils produced from each of them have characteristic aromas and flavors.
The four most important varieties in Spain
Arbequina
This variety originates from the town of Arbeca, in Lérida (Catalonia) from where it takes its name. It is predominant in Catalonia, and traditionally it has also been cultivated in the Balearic Islands and Aragon.
The agronomic qualities of the tree and the organoleptic characteristics of the oils of this variety are the cause of the great expansion it has experienced in recent decades, not only in Spain but also in other producing countries of the world.
Arbequina is now cultivated in many of the producing regions of Spain. The great geographical diversity of its cultivation means that we find oils of this variety with very diverse sensory profiles.
Generically, we could say that they are very fruity and fragrant oils, with notes reminiscent of apple, tomato, green almond and freshly cut grass. In the mouth they tend to be fluid and generally sweet, with a very slight bitterness and some spiciness.
Hojiblanca
It is the third most important variety in the Spanish olive grove. Its name derives from the whitish color of the underside of its leaves, which gives them a beautiful silvery color. It is cultivated mainly in different areas of Andalusia.
It is a variety in certain expansion because although its fat content is not high it is very productive, for this reason and for the firm texture of its flesh it is also appreciated to elaborate table olives.
Hojiblanca oils have a wide range of aromas and flavors; their smell of freshly cut grass stands out, with notes of apple and other green fruits. In the mouth they are smooth and sweet on entry but also somewhat bitter and spicy, with a pleasant almond aftertaste.
Picual
The Picual variety is the most important variety in Andalusia and one of the most important in the world. Its epicenter is in the province of Jaén where it is predominant, but the cultivation area extends to other areas of this region and other regions of Spain.
Given its wide diffusion, picual oils can present very diverse sensory attributes, but traditionally they are very fruity and fragrant. In the mouth they present well-defined attributes of bitterness, spiciness and astringency that become more nuanced with time.
Currently, an earlier harvesting allows us to obtain picual oils with new and renewed nuances, sweeter, greener and fruitier. Notes reminiscent of tomato plant, green almond, olive leaf, grass or green banana are frequent.
Picual oils have a high content of oleic acid, polyphenols, alpha tocopherol and other natural antioxidants, which gives them great stability.
Cornicabra
This variety is the second in Spain in terms of the importance of its cultivation. Its name derives from the shape of the slightly curved and asymmetrical fruit. In spite of its diffusion, it is a variety with little expansion, except in its cultivation area.
The cornicabra variety is clearly predominant in most of the olive-growing areas of central Spain, such as Toledo, Ciudad Real and Madrid, and is also found in some areas of Extremadura.
The oils of this variety have great personality. They are fruity and fragrant, with floral, green leaf and apple notes. In the mouth they are not very astringent, somewhat bitter and spicy with a slight almond aftertaste. They are rich in oleic acid and natural antioxidants, which gives them great stability.
Our olive oil tastings
Our olive oil tastings are luxury. Made with care for our clients. All of our olive oil tastings are private and are given by the best tasters and professionals in the world of olive oil in Spain.
In addition to the four premium extra virgin olive oils from the latest harvest that will make up our tasting, we include surprising pairings adapting to the dietary constraints, habits, religions and interests of our clients.
Our pairings range from acorn-fed Iberian ham, Spanish cheeses, bread, green apple, olive oil and spherified olives (molecular cuisine technique promoted by the Adriá brothers) and many more.
We will be happy to prepare for your clients and/or collaborators an unforgettable olive oil tasting.
Written by Santiago Botas and JJ Muiñozcano
Shall we organize an Olive Oil Tasting for you? Contact us HERE or at:
info@madrid-experience.com – 0034 915 417 099
